Jonathan & Angela Scott’s Blog

The silence is deafening – but our thoughts have been with you all as we headed to India for two of our hosted safaris to the East. How we love our annual journeys to this part of the world. The vibrants colors and energy of the cities and countryside – and the chance of seeing a tiger give India its own very special flavor. Tigers tend to dominate the conversation out here as one searches the teak and sal forests for the ‘striped one’ – and when you do find this most magnificent of big cats then you know what all the fuss was about. We saw tigers in Ranthambhore, Pench and Kanha NP’s – with one beautiful tigers lying in the shade of a tree mid-morning along one of the sandy tracks in Khana. It simply took our breath away and quite apart from our own excitement I thought our guide Nara was going to explode with the sense of good fortune you always feel at these times (the same feeling when you finally spot that leopard you have been longing to see!).

Our stay in India is always made particularly special by the spectacular Oberoi properties that are scattered around India. This visit we stayed at Oberoi hotels and resorts in Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Ranthambhore (Vanyavillas), Jaipur (Rajvillas) and Agra (Amaravillas) – each with its own unique design and ambience. But the thing that stands out about each of these properties is the service and attention to detail. For us it takes a huge responsibility off our shoulders when hosting our guests and friends on safari – we can concentrate of sharing without worrying about the standard of accommodation or food! We gave presentations of our images at evening functions in both Delhi and Mumbai organized by our hosts, allowing us to share our work and make new friends in the travel and conservation community – and this included a series of interviews with newspapers and magazines.

Angie and I are loving the chance to get back to taking pictures again – it always takes a few days to get the fingers and thumbs oiled after time at home in Nairobi – and two lenses in particular are really delivering. The Canon 8-15mm f/4 fisheye is outstanding and just such fun. Takes a bit of getting used to but quickly becomes addictive. Gives a totally different look to an image and the sharpness and clarity, color balance and all round performance are awesome. Angie is using the new 70-300mm f/4.5-5.6L IS which is proving excellent for street photography – it is lighter than the 70-200mm f/2.8L IS Series 2 (another favorite of ours!) which we also have with us and often use with a x1.4 Extender for extra reach – and incredibly sharp.

We are now in Bhutan – our second visit – and will be back here in March 2013. The Kingdom of the Thunder Dragon is another favorite – totally different to India with a gentle charm all its own. The Bhutanese people make every journey here a revelation – you just feel you want to live a better more thoughtful life. And what could be better than that. We are in Punaka right now and about to head off to the magnificent Punaka temple fortress – and then on to the river for a rafting adventure. The highlight though is going to be the annual Paro Festival – can’t even imagine the color and splendor we are going to experience over those three days.

And then Sri Lanka on the 10 April!

And Africa. Well, any time we think of home we are filled with joy and happiness at how much we love Kenya and the Mara – and all those amazing wild animals – those big cats! An image or piece of music can transport us home in an instant wherever we might be in the world. So yes, we miss our  beautiful home and Little Cat of course, and Slippers, Simba and Isis (in no particular order!) – and often find ourselves thinking of Zawadi and Leopard Gorge or the Marsh Pride – and Notch and his Boys. Oh dear – better stop!

Great to be back in contact – warm salaams to you all!

We felt very sad that Clawed ended up in this way (killed by herdsmen protecting their livestock) even though it was inevitable that he would almost certainly die a violent death. When I went to see the remains it felt almost sacrilege – there are no dignified burials out on the savanna but none the less……….The size of his skull and his teeth – even what little was left of them – made you realize how much bigger and more powerful a lion is in reality to what you see from a vehicle. I am sure that Clawed would not expect any different – he lived his life with an honesty that has always impressed me about lions (and not just them among the wild creatures) – they do what they do and move on. The threat of violence is an integral part of lion society – as is the exercise of it. But Clawed like Notch was exceptional to have lived so long – and it was a mark of his fortitude and dogged will to live that set him apart. Estimating Notch to be around 12 years of age it will be interesting to see how long he lives. Having the kind of backup he enjoys of 4 strapping companions will surely make a difference – and over and above that he is made of whatever the ‘right stuff’ is that goes in to the genetic pedigree of a alpha male. Long live the King – and salutations to his fallen rival Clawed. Because remember the irony – that it was Clawed, Romeo and their male companion who ousted Notch and killed his companion in 2005 or thereabouts (Pepe can remind of us the facts) – yet Notch lived on with his younger relatives after being ousted from the Marsh Pride and now rules a large swath of the Mara.

4 Muskateers had a battle royal this morning for possession of a male buffalo they killed early in the morning. The buff came back with a vengeance in daylight and cornered one of the males in the Airstrip Lugga – a ten foot deep intermittent water course – and stood over him. But eventually the buff moved on and the lions came back to feast. Earlier we were fascinated to see two rival clans of hyenas squabbling over a dead hippo in the murram pit next to the Governor’s Airstrip – they swam to reach the carcass and swarmed over it in their eagerness to eat. Zawadi moved on from Leopard Gorge some time during the night of 31 Jan. She had moved from the Gorge to try and hunt during the day leaving her daughter – Malaika (meaning Angel in Swahili) – safely back at base. We waited in vain the following morning for the inevitable move that we had been expecting sooner or later. What an amazing time we have enjoyed the past two weeks at the Gorge. Hot as hell these past few days – back to Nairobi tomorrow – then Namibia on the 8th Feb.

Just in from a fascinating afternoon – straight off the plane from Nairobi and heading for our cottage at Governor’s Camp. Greeted by our old friend Moses – of “Moses Rock” fame (Zawadi’s the leopard’s special place where Serian Camp is now situated) from when he was spotting for the leopard team and Big Cat Diary. Moses greeted us with the news that he and our friend Patrick Reynolds of Governor’s Il Moran tented camp – and its manager and walking guide – had earlier in the day driven to a spot not far from the Mara River beyond the Reserve boundary (north of the main road from Aitong to Mara Bridge) and north of Mara Rianta School. The purpose of their safari was to check out a report that an old male lion had been speared to death – some say he had been found inside a boma. The male was old, emaciated and with all four canines worn down and his lower incisors missing and mane thin and lacking in bulk. Patrick and Moses both agreed that this was Clawed. Certainly the circumstances and location seemed to fit – an old male lion, half-starved and looking for easy prey and a respite from the pressure of trying to avoid other lions. With no alternative but to seek out livestock – or even a human victim would be the worry – a child perhaps – an old lion however weak is a potentially lethal ‘killing machine’. Machine is not to meant in any way to diminish the life of these old animals – we are full of admiration for them and their indomitable spirit of survival – their determination to cling to life until their last breath is stilled.

Within an hour or so of arrival at Governor’s we headed out with Moses to check out the body of the old male. And to our delight discovered that the Kenya Wildlife Service vet had come over to the Musiara area to treat one of the 4 Muskateers – the one with the nasty face injury – a slash wound that had cut deeply across the right side of his face and right across his eye damaging the eyelid. This would be the third time that the vet had treated the male but he assured us that the eye was still intact and did not need removing. The gaping wound above the eye was infected but healing – and had continued to be a source of irritation to him since we first saw him with it during the first week in October. Apparently Scar Face and Bibi had been around the Crocodile Campsite south west of the windmill/spring that feeds Musiara Marsh and it is said that it was these lions who killed two cows (cannot verify this but seems true) and the Rangers had to intercede to save them from reprisals from the Masai herdsmen who do not tolerate such attacks easily – and understandably so. The other 3 Muskateers were meanwhile down on Bila Shaka. So to cut a long story short we waited while the vet administered the antidote to bring Scar Face round from the anesthetic. He gingerly got to his feet after about 15 to 20 minutes and then sat down again. We left him as he slowly walked in to the sunset with the Rangers keeping watch over him – and wisely so as a hyena soon appeared on the scene and more would surely follow.

Tomorrow is another Zawadi day for Angie and I. It is just too addictive to pass up this kind of opportunity for as long as she remains in the Leopard Gorge area.

Hi Everyone – many thanks for the feedback.

When we were in the Mara we had a report from some of the drivers at our base at Governor’s Camp that either Romeo or Clawed had been seen south of Rhino Ridge – this may have been the male seen on his own feeding on a buffalo that was partially in the water – in a lugga or intermittent water course. One of the guests showed us photos of this lion and we could see from his teeth (in a picture where his mouth was partially open) that it was not Clawed – he has very very worn down teeth and missing incisors – nor was it Romeo based on the number of teeth and the wear on them. This may be the same male that Jackson saw and posted a picture of. If anyone has other photos taken at that time of this male then we can get a better look – my first impression was that it wasn’t Romeo – but that is not verified.

If they are still alive, both Clawed and Romeo are old now and show the effects – and you do sometimes see an old lion that is wasting away and starving that somehow keeps going for weeks – months even – before being killed by hyenas or other lions or by herdsmen.

The last time Romeo was seen that we know of for certain – and it was Romeo because we looked at the photos – he had crossed to the Little Governor’s side of the river into the Mara Triangle/Mara Conservancy, and we went over to try and see him. He had a withered back left right leg and could not put weight on it – we saw that from the photos. When Joshua from Little Governor’s saw him over the next few days he was really struggling – very thin and in poor condition and being hassled by hyenas. He then disappeared. Could he still be alive – yes, possibly – but would he look like the lion in the pictures we were shown recently – most unlikely. So if anyone has more pictures for us to look at then maybe we can all get clarity on this.

We were fascinated to hear about Clawed pitching up at a buffalo kill made by the 4 Mushkateers a few weeks ago. The 4 Muskateers regularly target buffalo and have that art down pat. Clawed must have really traveled to get from Paradise back down to the Marsh. But remember he was given a new lease of life after being beaten up by the 4 Muskateers in October – when the Rangers provided him with a topi to feast on. So he was in better shape than one might have expected when we last saw him down on Paradise Plain. We only had a brief view of the photos that Onesmas had taken at the buffalo kill, and would love to take another look. But as surprising as it might seem – old males do sometimes get away with playing a very submissive role around a kill and the lion in the photo was very thin and had lost a lot of mane – what you would expect from a lion that is undernourished and whose testosterone levels are on the wane. This is what would have happened in Clawed’s circumstances and what we have seen before with aging ex-pride males. So whoever the old male was he was of no consequence to the 4 Muskateers – and there was plenty of food for all of them. Remember too that Clawed’s teeth are in such bad shape that he can only eat the very softest parts of a carcass – or chew on the bones and skin – so cannot eat easily.

Some of the drivers at Governor’s feel sure that Clawed was able to feed with the 4 Muskateers – and had previously got away with a beating rather than being killed – because the 4 Muskateers are his relatives – maybe even his offspring. This idea is based on the fact that of the creche of 9 surviving cubs born to the Marsh Lions some years back – there were 4 females and 5 males of around 5 years ago to the pride – 4 of those 5 males might be the 4 Muskateers. The 5 young males initially headed south to Paradise when they were forced out of the pride. Their 4 sisters are now the pride of younger females that we see to the east of Bila Shaka and sometimes up on Rhino Ridge with one male (there were two but one was beaten up by Notch’s Boys and disappeared). The only way to verify if this is true if for us to dig out our pictures of those 5 males – one lost a leg and either died or was euthanized by the Rangers – and see if they match with the 4 Muskateers. I personally would be surprised if they were the same males.

Fascinating!

Had a very nice email from our good friend and traveling companion in Mara and Zambia – Milly. Bit rushed for time so have taken the liberty of copying our reply to Milli to cover our bases most efficiently. Here goes:

Hi Milly – that is very nice to hear. The Mara is still the most awesome spot in Africa – though as you know there is nothing like traveling further afield too to spice things up!

Hi Everyone – been thinking of you all even if rather silent of late! Been flat out – and quite often in the Mara too! Nothing like it – and some amazing stories to report – some of which you will have already had reports of from Jackson, Paul Kirui and Warren.

Zawadi – what a gift she has proved to be over the years. And to spend time with her in the Mara North Conservancy has been epic – not just because some of that has been at Leopard Gorge which I first visited in 1977 – but because she is one of those one in a million creatures – just like Half-Tail her mother. And to have her with a female cub – around 3.5 months old so born around mid October. Angie and I have watched Zawadi since she was around 7 months old – that was in Aug 1996 – and we filmed Zawadi and Half-Tail for Big Cat Diary during the first season of what has become a landmark in wildlife television filming – and viewing. Zawadi is 16 years old and there is no denying that while she looks amazing for her age she is slowing down. In fact there are times when she seems almost confused or just so weary that one cannot imagine that she can survive in such a competitive predator environment as the Mara without at some point being a yard too slow in a confrontation with a lion or hyena/hyenas. Having said that she is still capable of some pretty acrobatic leaps and bounds – and her daughter is certainly bringing out the youngster in Zawadi when she hares around early in the morning or late in the evening. Zawadi spends a lot of time searching for small prey – hares, impala fawns and the like – and we watched as she stalked close to some impalas – one of them with a young calf/fawn. She crept so close – aided by the long red oat grass (the Mara looks stunning right now) – that when she finally rushed she was able to pounce on the fawn in the confusion and then carried it to an acacia tree just ahead of the first of the hyenas who closed in on her when the heard the kaffuful. The next day she carried the hind quarters back to her cub who was waiting back at the Gorge. Tonight mother and cub are at the Gorge – and offer the prospect for visitors to MNC leopard viewing of a lifetime!

The 4 Muskateers are still with Bibi – they killed a buffalo last night (as they often do) – and still mating, though she is the instigator and often they seem none too interested!  The rest of the pride are scattered all over the place, and Joy and her 5 have headed out of the Reserve it seems. Not sure how that story is going to end up. Haven’t seen the pictures yet of the time the 4 Muskateers killed a buffalo near the Musiara Gate and apparently Clawed was seen – and photographed – feeding on the same kill – looking very thin and with his mane only half what it once was. More on that later. Got to go – but warm greetings from Angie and myself.

Hi Everyone – latest news on Zawadi is that we are told she has been seen with 2 cubs – she was seen by us heavily pregnant in mid October 2011 – so the cubs could be 8 to 10 weeks old. She has been seen around Moses Rock – the site of Serian Camp – for some while now and this is one of her favorite hides and resting places. When we arrived at Governor’s Camp on the 30 Dec we were greeted with disturbing news. Apparently Zawadi had mauled a herdsman about a week ago – so Christmas time. She was hiding up along a riverine thicket in daytime not far from Moses Rock when a herd of cattle drifted towards where she was hidden – unknown to the herdsman. Feeling under threat – and perhaps particularly tense due to having young cubs in the area – Zawadi charged out of the bushes and mauled the herdsman – he sustained cuts and bites (we will get the full details later) to shoulder and arms – and was taken to the local dispensary to be patched up. Fortunately he managed to protect his head from attack. Our friend Jonathan at Governors who used to work in the garage here but who is currently training in the kitchen told us that the herdsman was looking after Jonathan’s cattle at the time! Zawadi spent the rest of the day up a tree seemingly unconcerned by the incident and later killed a female impala which she seen feeding on the following day. As I mentioned we will get the full details from the herder himself at a later date.

The other news is that we saw and photographed Clawed he old ex-Marsh Pride male down on Paradise – not far from the intermittent water course and long elephant grass to the east of the track leading to Main Crossing – one of the wildebeest river crossing sites. The old male was lying under a Boscia tree – very thin and with his coat in poor condition – tufts of his fur were missing and worn through to the skin and he looked very manky indeed. Apparently he had been seen in this area for a few days previously. We were not able to see how mobile he was – or not – as he did not try and walk while we were there. The following morning he had gone and there were lionesses in the area. It is three months since the Marsh Pride were taken over by the 4 Muskateers and Clawed and Romeo were beaten up and chased away. Can’t help thinking that if there were more lions in the area that the two old males wouldn’t have been moved out for good a lot earlier. But these old males have the warrior spirit and it is not in their nature to give up life without a valiant struggle to the end. Romeo has not been seen since we were last in the Mara a couple of weeks ago.

Please let us know if you have details to add to these reports.

And of course – A Very Happy New Year to all of you from us!

Warm regards

Jonathan and Angie

Got a text from our good friend Duncan Noosaron in Mara North Conservancy on 26 Dec 2011 to say:

“Happy Christmas to You. Zawadi is next to Serian Camp (Alex Walker’s lovely safari camp along the Mara River) – and she hash’t moved for 3 days now. She may have cubs?? Also the lioness you were watching is at the same place with her three cubs.”

Serian Camp is situated next to Moses Rock – in fact partly on Moses Rock overlooking the Mara River – and Moses Rock is one of Zawadi’s favorite places and where we have often seen her with cubs in the past – such as with Safi in 2000. And this is where we filmed her in 2002 after she lost 2 of her 3 small cubs in Leopard Gorge. She then moved the remaining cub 6 km to Moses Rock – same place where a fire had swept through the area. In the end she lost that third cub too. Zawadi is very old now as you know – so life it tough for her and she sleeps a lot and tries to conserve her energy. We will do our best to catch up with her in the next month. We will be in the Mara from the 30 Dec to 2 Jan on a family safari – and then again from 13 Jan to 27 Jan working on an exciting new project (more on that later!). And then from 23 Jan to 27 Jan with the Prize winners of the Canon EOS Adventure Photo Competition. And then again from 30 Jan to 3 Feb with a SanDisk Incentive Safari. Finally we will be on safari with our good friend Michel Zoghzoghi working on his book on Predators from 25 Feb to 3 March 2012. We will be staying at our cottage at Governor’s Main Camp throughout this period. Come and say Hi to us if you are visiting the Mara. Then we are off to India, Bhutan and Sri Lanka – and if you want to join us in India or Sri Lanka then send us an email. Have a great day – we are about to tuck in to our Christmas Turkey with all the trimmings and Little Cat is prowling around looking for her share of the feast!